高银街：杭城美食之都新宠

来源:用户上传      作者: 萧　殷　应　豪

　　在人气鼎盛的杭州清河坊历史文化特色街区，近年新“冒”出了一条颇具特色的美食街――高银街。高银街紧挨杭州最著名的古街河坊街，并与河坊街呈东西平行走向，全长440米。在这条美食街上，散布着川、鲁、闽、粤、浙以及素菜、海鲜、快餐等各种菜系和风味餐馆计22家。来高银街落户的不仅有老字号知味观、王润兴、功德林分店，也有后起之秀天兴楼、名源、好绍欣等酒楼，更有百家鲜、千番拉面等小吃店。在短短的三年时间里，高银街不仅汇集了各地特色菜肴和风味小吃，还成为各档酒楼竞相入主的兴旺地带。
　　高银街南宋时叫肉市巷，又称灌肺岭，以出售糯米灌猪肺出名，如今高银街已演绎成人气兴旺的美食街，八方客人慕名而至，每日人群熙攘，热闹非凡。这里的菜馆酒楼装修很有特色，或飞檐翘角，古色古香；或金碧辉煌，舒适别致；或中西合璧，富丽堂皇，门面装饰也颇具匠心，一眼看过就给人留下难忘的记忆。每当夜幕降临，高银街流光溢彩，有的门前大红灯笼高挂，热烈喜庆；有的门前霓虹闪烁，温馨怡人；有的门前亮着普通日光灯，显得淳朴自然。因而你只要去过一次，下次再来肯定不会走错门。
　　作为菜馆酒楼，对于客人来说靓点是特色，核心是口味。高银街的菜馆酒楼特色各异，口味不同，许多客人到了高银街首先想到的是想尝尝正宗的杭帮菜，皇饭儿酒楼于是就成了他们的首选。“皇饭儿”听其名就非同一般，原来它是百年老店王润兴酒楼的分店。听店主屠荣生介绍，“皇饭儿”店名还是乾隆皇帝亲笔御赐的：那是乾隆第三次南巡来到杭州的一天，游吴山时突遇大雨，便到一农家屋檐下避雨，此时他又冷又饿，进入屋内要求主人提供一餐便饭。主人阿兴见来人饥寒交迫，十分同情，但家境贫寒，只得将中午留下的半爿鱼头加上一块豆腐以及一些豆瓣酱在砂锅中炖了又炖，并热了剩饭招待乾隆。乾隆狼吞虎咽，片刻一扫而光，他感到这顿饭比皇宫御膳房的山珍海味还可口，连连称谢，并拿出银子给阿兴，叫他开个饭庄。不久阿兴在塌牌楼(今河坊街与中山中路交叉口西侧)租了间沿街房子开出了王润兴饭庄。五年后乾隆来到王润兴饭庄，酒足饭饱后乘兴书写了“皇饭儿”三字赐予阿兴，这个店名便一直沿用至今。
　　“皇饭儿”作为2003年在高银街开出的第一家酒楼，一直来生意红火，顾客盈门。西湖醋鱼、龙井虾仁、东坡肉等杭帮菜，做得原汁原味，口味纯正，深受客人青睐。尤其是当年乾隆吃过的鱼头豆腐、盐件儿等更是点击率极高，几乎每客必点。许多外地客人一下火车或飞机就打的到皇饭儿酒楼，为的就是品尝一下鱼头豆腐和正宗地道的杭帮菜。屠荣生高兴地说：也许是沾上了乾隆皇帝的光，在清河坊历史文化特色街区近几年我们相继开出王润兴酒楼、皇饭儿酒楼、皇饭儿酒楼厨工坊，想不到开一家兴旺一家。他认为菜肴的质量和口味是老字号长盛不衰的命脉，酒楼想要留住客人，在保持传统的同时还必须不断创新，不断加入新鲜元素，近年来这家店不断推出煎牛仔骨、金盏虾球、培根雪鱼卷等创新菜。
　　以家常菜取胜的天兴楼大酒店则品种丰富，价格实惠，备受客人青睐。黑胡椒牛排、五香土干、天兴东坡鸭等数十种家常菜如今都已成了天兴楼大酒店响当当的招牌菜。翻开菜单细细看，你会发现这里的菜价比许多菜馆酒楼要便宜许多，即使同类菜的菜价，也要便宜15%左右。章瑛总经理意味深长地说：“我的经营之道是把实惠让给顾客，吸引更多回头客。”这是一个“老餐饮”的肺腑之言。章瑛在餐饮行业摸爬滚打了二三十年，她在天香楼、杭州酒家做过服务员、领班；在开元、花中城当过餐饮经理。多年经营使她具备了做好餐饮企业的素质，2003年1月章瑛借得100万元独自开出了“天兴楼”。由于她的精心管理，两年多来以家常菜招揽客人，生意兴旺，回头客占了50%以上，杭州、香港的一些大旅行社也把团队餐订在这里。
　　“小绍欣”和“好绍欣”两家酒楼开在同一条高银街上，相隔不到百米，这是同一个绍兴籍的老板经营，以绍兴菜见长。进入店堂，雪白的墙壁、漆黑的桌椅，墙上贴着几幅石拱桥、乌篷船的水墨画，具有浓郁的江南水乡特色。两家酒楼的服务员、厨师、厨师长大都是正宗绍兴人，酒楼供应的都是绍兴菜，如肉末臭豆腐、干烧神仙本鸡、干菜臭豆腐等。干菜河虾被称为绍兴菜一绝，品尝过的客人没有一个不称赞此菜味道特佳。为确保证绍兴菜口味纯正地道，他们做菜的许多原料都是直接从绍兴运过来的。
　　坐落于高银街东面的名源酒楼擅长海鲜，这里的海鲜有一种精细、清淡、典雅的味道，其中一绝就是鸡汤氽海蚌。一碗清澈见底的清汤，两片宛如白玉的海蚌尖，恰似美人的温柔，趁热喝下仿佛有一种至清至纯的温暖徐徐在身体里展开。你再在此漫步，不意闯进百年老店知味观分店“味宅”，古朴典雅的装修，美味可口的菜肴、精致细巧的点心，你又会觉得这里别有一番天地!这家百年老店的分店何以能一枝独秀出现在高银街上?原来它的经理孟敏青是一位“中国宴会大师”，她的烹饪技艺，不能不让人纷至沓来!
　　游走在高银美食街，给人感受最深的是那些走出菜馆酒楼的客人脸上露出的灿烂笑容，从他们的脸上看到了客人对菜馆酒楼菜肴质量和服务态度的首肯，他们不仅是在品味这座城市的美味，更重要的是在这里经历一种文化的熏陶和洗礼。但愿在清河坊历史文化街区的护佑下，高银街的美食香飘万里，杭帮菜更加发扬光大!
　　
　　Features
　　A Street of Food Delicacies
　　By Xiao Yin, Ying Hao
　　
　　Qinghefang, one of the most popular tourist attractions in Hangzhou today, provides modern visitors with an opportunity to glance into the past commercial prosperity of the ancient city. In parallel with the bustling tourist paradise is another huge mouth-watering attraction for epicures: the 440-meter-long backstreet is fully flanked with restaurants.
　　The tasty reputation of Gaoyin Street can trace back to the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) when the street was known as the Meat Market Street, where the best known alluring delicacy was the pig lung stuffed with sticky rice. Today, restaurants there still allure diners with the traditional dishes, but which vary remarkably.
　　In order to make themselves stand out, all these restaurants are decorated in a special way. A restaurant is styled in an ancient double-eave roof; another restaurant sports red lanterns cascading in the front. A restaurant flares a neon light at night. A restaurant just uses ordinary fluorescent lamps to signify bedrock-priced yet tasty snacks.

　　But what’s most important is not the appearance of a restaurant, but its essence: how tasty their dishes are.
　　Emperor’s Meal is the restaurant that first came to the newly restored street three years ago. But its history goes back to a folk tale set against the background of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Like many other similar folk tales, this one is about how the emperor came to an ordinary farmer’s house for a meal, how the poor farmer cooked the leftover for the emperor, and how the emperor, so exhausted and so hungry at the end of the day, found the leftover so tasty and so wonderful. But this particular tale does not end here. It goes on to say that the emperor gave the farmer some cash and said he could set up a restaurant with it. Five years later the emperor came to Hangzhou again and patronized the farmer’s restaurant. The emperor liked what he enjoyed there and reminisced about their first encounter. This time, the emperor did not give the farmer-turned restaurateur money. The scholarly emperor gave the restaurant a title: Emperor’s Meal.
　　Today, the Emperor’s Meal offers traditional Hangzhou flavored dishes. The fish head braised with tofu, the legendary dish prepared by the poor farmer and loved by the emperor, is a must for diners. Some non-Hangzhou epicures come all the way and head straight for the restaurant.
　　Emperor’s Meal is only one of the dozens of restaurants on Gaoyin Street. Though not all of them have some tale to tell about their origins, each offers something special. For example, Tianxinglou Restaurant offers home-cooking dishes. A restaurateur from Shaoxing even runs two restaurants on the same street situated only about 100 meters from each other. And the two offer the Shaoxing-styled dishes. Mingyuan Restaurant offers seafood. Even Zhiweiguan Restaurant, a tasty presence in Hangzhou for nearly a century, has a branch restaurant on Gaoyin Street. One chef at the restaurant is a “State Banquet Master”, an honor that chefs at other restaurants can only admire.
　　If you take an evening stroll along Gaoyin Street, you would be greatly impressed by the different styles of these restaurants. But all of them have at least one thing in common: after-meal epicures leave with a contented smile.
　　
　　(Translated by David)

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